The rest of the Trip

As you can see I ran out of gas (blogwise, that is). But I did put together a little slideshow which shows highlights of my 26 day, 9,400 mile ride. Enjoy!!

http://blip.tv/file/2633130

Next season, I hope to do a "southern swing" down to Alabama, and a loop retracing my ride to Natashquan, then hoping a supply boat to northern Newfoundland, then down and around and back home through Nova Scotia.

RB

Destination Highways

In the process of planning this trip I ran across a series of books called "Destination Highways". Two enterprising bikers from BC have translated their passion for riding into a cool cottage industry. basically, they ride all the neat roads in a state (so far BC, Washington and northern California) and use a rating system to rank them. They publish the ratings along with nice descriptions with a "Click and Clack" flavor. Mike and I have used this resource to help plan the trip. The innkeeper at the Bavarian Orchard suggests we take route 3A north into the Kootenay region, along the lake and a quick check in the book reveals that this road is rated #1 in southern BC, and it connects to other road segments in the top 10. So, after a continental breakfast distinguished by homemade fruit muffins and fresh cherries, we were off to find biking nirvana.

Creston, BC

Creston is a town in the mountains of British Columbia known for its fruit growing. The Bavarian Orchard motel, a "Mike Bosworth" selection, is simple, clean, and the ladie manager tells us, ripe cherries in the orchard out back which we are free to sample. We ask for restaurant recommendations and she steers us to Chatka, a Polish place just down the road.

Chatka is small and charming. We order the schnitzel, which is delicious - a nice family operation. We find a liquor store, Mike selects a nice Pinot Noir, and we head for the gazebo in the orchard for a relaxing session watching the sunset and the beautiful orchard.

Alberta? I Didn't know we were going to Alberta

It was raining when we left Waterton Lakes and this day would see rain on and off for most of the ride. I must admit that when planning the ride I didn't realize that we would go through part of Alberta. The interesting thing about this area is that the huge dramatic mountains we had been experiencing for the last two days just end abruptly and immediately you are riding through flat to rolling farmland. Nice country. We pass through several small towns, a wind farm, as the land morphs back into forested mountains as we head west into British Columbia. At one point the road winds through a vast pile of rubble 20 feet high or so, with a historical marker. We stop and read about Frank's slide, which happended in the early 1900s and obliterated a mining town and about 70 lives. To the left is a mountain with a big slope of the same rubble. Apparently, a 1 kilometer long piece of the mountain broke loose and came down on the unsuspecting town. We keep on riding through winding mountain scenery and over several passes. Destination: Creston, BC

Waterton Lakes NP - Alberta

After the quick visit to many Glacier, we had arguably seen enough spectacularly beautiful mountain scenery, but just north of Glacier NP is Waterton Lakes NP, a little known Canadian national park with a reputation for its beauty. So, what the heck, we have come this far, let's go check it out. The road in gave us a hint of what was to come.

The main (easily accessible) feature of the park is a fjord like lake with an old "railroad resort hotel" then Prince of Wales, and a little village. Again, I will let the pictures do the talking; It would be fun to stay at the prince of Wales fo ra few days and do some hiking.

More, Yes More Glacier Park

The next morning we awoke early, enjoyed some gourmet coffee from Mike's french press, and my Jet Boil stove, two great pieces of technology. I had scrounged up some UHT half & half from somewhere so the coffee was an absolute treat. The plan for the day was to ride up into Canada and head west on Route 3, stopping the next night at the Bavarian Orchard Motel, a place Mike had found online. For a few minutes we considered heading south a bit to ride Rt 49, a road heading back into the Park that I had heard was fun. But, we had a long way to go so we headed north.

About 5 miles up the road we saw signs for Many Glacier. A quick look at the map confirmed a short (maybe 10 mile) ride back into another section of Glacier Park. What the hell, let's go!

To summarize, another mind blowing visual treat, as the road led us up to another valley of fantastic vistas. There was also a hotel. Here are a few pics:

Glacier Park

One hallmark of the trip so far is that I have seen some exceptionally beautiful and interesting places, so much so that frequently I am left wondering if I have experienced the highlight of the trip, and everything to come will be a let down. Well, once again I was wrong. Glacier Park, and the "Going to the Sun Road" over Logan Pass blew away everything that came before in terms of dramatic scenery. We got to the west entrance of the Park at about 5:00 and planned to ride the 50 miles or so of the "Going to the Sun Highway" with the late afternoon sun on the mountains. We also tried to take some video of us riding which I will try to post if I can figure it out.

The first ten miles or so was fairly flat as we followed this river into the Park. We stopped for a photo op by a lake and were completely blown away by the view. Little did we know that this was merely a warm up. We continued up the road, gawking at the mountains and waterfalls on either side. Then, straight ahead, loomed a huge mountain that spanned the entire valley, and as we peered up at it we could make out the trace of a road, and the occasional gleam from a moving car, on this road that seemed to be scratched out of a sheer cliff. Well, let's get on with it! Up and up we rode. I will let the pictures speak for themselves. Once we started climbing the road surface narrowed considerably and the drop-offs increased significantly. There was a moderate amount of traffic and some construction delays, but it didn't matter, we knew we were on a special ride. Everything was breathtaking - the light, the views, the road, blah blah blah. We camped that night at St Mary's campsite in the eastern end of the Park, after a pretty good meatloaf special served family style at Johnson's Restaurant. We picked up some camp firewood on the way back to the campsite and eventually Mike got a good fire going. We sat around for a few hours watching the campfire, thinking and talking about how incredibly lucky we were to be doing this ride, and how fantastic was the ride over Logan Pass. Again, we both slept soundly.

One last thing: Glacier Park belongs on everyone's "Bucket List".

Up to Glacier Park

As mentioned, Bob, our host at the Russian live suggested an alternate route to Glacier Park that would avoid the Rt 93 construction and perhaps be more fun; from Missoula, head east on I-90, pick up Rt 200 at Bonner, to Rt 83 north, upa valley between the Mission Range and the Swan Range. We were running late so didn't stop for pictures, but the valley and mountains to either side were beautiful. We reached Glacier Park late in the afternoon.

Russian Olive

A bit of foreshadow: I am sitting in the Sugar Shack Baking Co, in Seattle as I write this post. It is 8:00 AM and I am enjoying a breakfast sandwich on 'savory" biscuit and a latte while I await my second tire replacement of the trip. But more on that later.

Route 93 north of Missoula is a mess. It seems they are rebuilding it (no sign of "stimulus $" signs) complete with huge culverts every 1/4 mile or so to enable wildlife to cross the road without walking in front of some logging truck. Now a bit dubious about our B&B choice, we pick our way through the construction maze in the gathering dusk. Then, at mile 16, just as Bob, our host predicted is the side road he told us about. We are to head up the road about 3 miles, but the mountains look closer and the shacks and mobile homes on the road don't give us much hope. Finally, again just as predicted, we find the house #, a five digit affair, with a gravel drive leading up to a modest house. We are greeted by Francis, who announces that this is his in-laws' place and goes to find Mom in Law Judy. We get settled in our little "guest wing" next to the garage and Judy heads off to find us some wine. Mike has fairly eclectic wine requirements due to some allergies, but Judy says "no problem", and unbeknown to us, drives off to a neighbor to get a bottle for Mike.

Over the course of our one night's stay we meet the rest of the family, enjoy our wine, watch a summer thunderstorm move up the valley from our panoramic perch, enjoy a beautiful breakfast with Bob and Judy (with real maple syrup on the waffles), and take a little stroll around the neighborhood before breakfast. All in all, it represents everything that is good and magical about random travel. The next day we head back through the construction to Twin State BMW and a new Metzeler V6 tire for the rear wheel. They are great people, inviting us in the shop, and giving Mike a lesson in chain maintenance.

Bob has suggested an alternate route up to Glacier Park, and by 11:00 AM we are off.

Up to Missoula/ The Bakery

Mike and I were on the road by 8:30, eager to get on with our adventure. It would have been easy to stay on in Ketchum but the open road beckoned. We left with hugs and kisses. It was a beautiful morning. we turned onto Rt 75 north, rolled through Ketchum and into the beautiful countryside north of town, climbing gradually through meadow and aspen grove. We climbed to Galena Summit, a mountain pass with nicely graded sweepers - just right to get us psyched for the road ahead. Apparently, Mike had shrugged off the mishap because he carved up Galena Summit like an Easter ham. He has certainly learned a few tricks since our Arizona ride last Fall. The north side of Galena Summit offers sweeping views of the Stanley Basin and the Sawtooth Range and I stop for a picture at an overlook where Stephie and I stopped on our drive to Berkeley a few years ago. It brings back many memories.

We cross the Salmon River, now only a little brook, but in the next 30 miles we will watch it grow into a mighty river before it heads west. Further on, we stop for a break behind an SUV. Suddenly two guys appear, one holding a pretty impressive salmon. Now we see where the river gets its name.

Our short term goal is to reach Stanley, ID, to have breakfast at the Bakery, a restaurant highly recommended by Jay. We enter Stanley and eventually find the Bakery, a small log structure with a large line extending out the door. The crowd looks like a giant Abercrombie and Fitch commercial - count me in!

After about thirty minutes in line, we get to order, find a table and await our food - which is worth the wait. We enjoy our meal and the scene and head north. From here we follow the Salmon River, and all its twists and turns - usually without guard rails, which makes for an exhilarating ride. the river is beautiful as is the surrounding countryside.

After many miles, we cross another exciting mountain pass, with well graded sweepers, bail out lanes etc. encouraging a more aggressive approach to riding and roll into Montana.

We modified the original trip plan to get my tire replaced in Missoula, which has a BMW dealer with the tire I need in stock. We found a B&B online and after a scouting trip to find the dealer, and a good dinner at the Montana Club, a regional dinner house chain recommended by our B&B host, we head north for a run to the Russian Olive B&B. Once we are off the interstate, I grow apprehensive about the decision, because highway 93 has major construction (the sign says for 20 miles, and the B&B is 16 miles up Rt 93. We press on...

Ketchum

It's always a treat to visit Jay and Gay, two wonderful friends. Don't go for the home cooking, not that both Jay and Gay can't spin some great meals, but because there are some great restaurants in Ketchum, and Jay and Gay know where they are. This trip, we started with breakfast at Christina's a top drawer Italian spot overseen by Christina herself. Then, dinner on the veranda at the Valley Club, which included a tour of the newly renovated club house and kitchen, in which Jay played a big role. The next night we went to the Big Wood Grill, and again sat on the veranda in perfect weather. Mike and I enjoyed the trout.

We also got in a nice hike up the hill behind Jay's house, and importantly, some clean laundry. In net, another short but sweet stay with the Cassells. Sunday morning, it's off to Missoula, to get a new tire on the way to Glacier Park.