Russian Olive

A bit of foreshadow: I am sitting in the Sugar Shack Baking Co, in Seattle as I write this post. It is 8:00 AM and I am enjoying a breakfast sandwich on 'savory" biscuit and a latte while I await my second tire replacement of the trip. But more on that later.

Route 93 north of Missoula is a mess. It seems they are rebuilding it (no sign of "stimulus $" signs) complete with huge culverts every 1/4 mile or so to enable wildlife to cross the road without walking in front of some logging truck. Now a bit dubious about our B&B choice, we pick our way through the construction maze in the gathering dusk. Then, at mile 16, just as Bob, our host predicted is the side road he told us about. We are to head up the road about 3 miles, but the mountains look closer and the shacks and mobile homes on the road don't give us much hope. Finally, again just as predicted, we find the house #, a five digit affair, with a gravel drive leading up to a modest house. We are greeted by Francis, who announces that this is his in-laws' place and goes to find Mom in Law Judy. We get settled in our little "guest wing" next to the garage and Judy heads off to find us some wine. Mike has fairly eclectic wine requirements due to some allergies, but Judy says "no problem", and unbeknown to us, drives off to a neighbor to get a bottle for Mike.

Over the course of our one night's stay we meet the rest of the family, enjoy our wine, watch a summer thunderstorm move up the valley from our panoramic perch, enjoy a beautiful breakfast with Bob and Judy (with real maple syrup on the waffles), and take a little stroll around the neighborhood before breakfast. All in all, it represents everything that is good and magical about random travel. The next day we head back through the construction to Twin State BMW and a new Metzeler V6 tire for the rear wheel. They are great people, inviting us in the shop, and giving Mike a lesson in chain maintenance.

Bob has suggested an alternate route up to Glacier Park, and by 11:00 AM we are off.

Up to Missoula/ The Bakery

Mike and I were on the road by 8:30, eager to get on with our adventure. It would have been easy to stay on in Ketchum but the open road beckoned. We left with hugs and kisses. It was a beautiful morning. we turned onto Rt 75 north, rolled through Ketchum and into the beautiful countryside north of town, climbing gradually through meadow and aspen grove. We climbed to Galena Summit, a mountain pass with nicely graded sweepers - just right to get us psyched for the road ahead. Apparently, Mike had shrugged off the mishap because he carved up Galena Summit like an Easter ham. He has certainly learned a few tricks since our Arizona ride last Fall. The north side of Galena Summit offers sweeping views of the Stanley Basin and the Sawtooth Range and I stop for a picture at an overlook where Stephie and I stopped on our drive to Berkeley a few years ago. It brings back many memories.

We cross the Salmon River, now only a little brook, but in the next 30 miles we will watch it grow into a mighty river before it heads west. Further on, we stop for a break behind an SUV. Suddenly two guys appear, one holding a pretty impressive salmon. Now we see where the river gets its name.

Our short term goal is to reach Stanley, ID, to have breakfast at the Bakery, a restaurant highly recommended by Jay. We enter Stanley and eventually find the Bakery, a small log structure with a large line extending out the door. The crowd looks like a giant Abercrombie and Fitch commercial - count me in!

After about thirty minutes in line, we get to order, find a table and await our food - which is worth the wait. We enjoy our meal and the scene and head north. From here we follow the Salmon River, and all its twists and turns - usually without guard rails, which makes for an exhilarating ride. the river is beautiful as is the surrounding countryside.

After many miles, we cross another exciting mountain pass, with well graded sweepers, bail out lanes etc. encouraging a more aggressive approach to riding and roll into Montana.

We modified the original trip plan to get my tire replaced in Missoula, which has a BMW dealer with the tire I need in stock. We found a B&B online and after a scouting trip to find the dealer, and a good dinner at the Montana Club, a regional dinner house chain recommended by our B&B host, we head north for a run to the Russian Olive B&B. Once we are off the interstate, I grow apprehensive about the decision, because highway 93 has major construction (the sign says for 20 miles, and the B&B is 16 miles up Rt 93. We press on...

Ketchum

It's always a treat to visit Jay and Gay, two wonderful friends. Don't go for the home cooking, not that both Jay and Gay can't spin some great meals, but because there are some great restaurants in Ketchum, and Jay and Gay know where they are. This trip, we started with breakfast at Christina's a top drawer Italian spot overseen by Christina herself. Then, dinner on the veranda at the Valley Club, which included a tour of the newly renovated club house and kitchen, in which Jay played a big role. The next night we went to the Big Wood Grill, and again sat on the veranda in perfect weather. Mike and I enjoyed the trout.

We also got in a nice hike up the hill behind Jay's house, and importantly, some clean laundry. In net, another short but sweet stay with the Cassells. Sunday morning, it's off to Missoula, to get a new tire on the way to Glacier Park.

Mike's Boo Boo

Mike's bike was a bit scratched up - windshield trashed hand guard gone, fairing and bags scratched and scraped. Going over Galena Summit, a mountain pas about 20 miles north of Ketchum, Mike had puled onto the shoulder to take some pictures. he hadn't anticipated the soft and uneven sand and his bike went over at about 15 mph. Mike hit hard on his shoulder and helmet and had a slight separation of the shoulder but little other damage. The bike was as described. a passerby helped Mike patch together the windscreen, and he made it to Ketchum OK. Mike got a can of Krylon and I chipped in some more cable ties, and with Jay's suggestions, we cobbled together a pretty good solution to the windscreen. It's now about 1200 miles since Ketchum and the bike (and Mike) are doing just fine.

Over to Ketchum

The next day I rode about 400 miles to Ketchum, ID, where I was to meet Mike Bosworth for the next stage of the ride, and visit friends Jay and Gay Weake. No pictures on this section and not too much excitement, except: heading west from Bozeman, I took another "small" road numbered 84. What a treat! Like 78 the day before but even better, lusher, twistier.

I had another "National Geographic" moment. At the bottom of a long hill a came upon the Madison River, a famous trout stream that was wider and deeper than I imagined. After a mile or so I noticed some pelicans in the water to the left, a surprise to me. I thought they were seabirds, and we were about 600 miles from the ocean. As I watched the pelicans, I noticed something on the right side. There about 100 feet ahead, and about 40 feet in the air, was a big golden eagle, flapping its wings feverishly to gain altitude. For what seemed like a few seconds, it seemed to hover over my head before heading out over the river.

The rest of the ride was uneventful; a nice breakfast in Ennis, MT, where I finally met some riders not on cruiser bikes - Ducatis and BMWs; through some famous trout fishing areas, fairly crowded with tourists and over familiar ground in southern Idaho. Finally (I was tired again) up that sweet ride up 75 through Hailey and into Ketchum.

Mike's bike was already parked in Jay's driveway. I found Gay and she mentioned that Jay had taken Mike to the emergency rom, as a precaution after a minor bike mishap on Galena Summit. I hadn't noticed anything wrong with Mike's bike, but when I looked at the other side, sure enough, it was battered and bruised.

To be continued.

Beartooth Highway

What can I say 40 miles or so of high mountain twisties, about 15-20 miles in alpine environment; just spectacular, even with construction delays and tourist traffic. I'll just post some ictures and even they don't do it justice.

At red Lodge, MT, a bustling Western style resort town I took a break. I was tired and it was late. I took a left on Rt 78, a country road as per the map, and was rewarded with a wonderful romp over and around grassy hills, ranches, with beautiful sweeper curves. Reinvigorated, I made a quick run down th e50 miles or so to I 90, then blasted into Livingston, where I had a reservation at the restored Murray Hotel, built in 1904, and right out of Legends of the Fall. Nice room and a great meal downstairs in the restaurant. Read a bit, enjoyed some Moose Drool, the local beer, and went to bed.

Even More Incredible!!

From Worland, I head north on Rt 16 in desert scrub and plus 90 degree temperatures, then turn west into Cody, WY. I stop for a break and find a shade tree in a small grassy park. Lying on my back in the soft cool grass feels good. After about ten minutes I mount up and find the turn off for the Chief Joseph Trail about 1/4 mile up the road. On the road atlas this road is depicted as a low end two lane highway, but this thing is a beautiful, modern two lane highway with the wide, paved shoulders that give you confidence to cut loose a bit. The road winds through some rolling terrain and you can see the mountains looming just ahead. We start to seriously climb through beautiful grassland with big orange rock outcroppings, around a few switchbacks and up into some "high country", a fairly wide table land with big firs, meadows, and brooks. Up and up we go until we "summit" at a well developed overlook called Dead Indian. The view down the other side is breathtaking - varied terrain and mountain structures as far as you can see, and directly below another series of serious switchbacks. Lets go!!