Sunday, June 24, 2007

Day 4: Hanging Out in Natashquan





This is the day to take a break from riding. I will explore Natashquan and just hang out, then start heading back on Thursday morning. I get up around 5:30, putter around, then have breakfast downstairs at around 7:15. It’s good – eggs over easy, sausage, homefries, etc, well prepared and served. Mr. Landry, the innkeeper does a good job. After breakfast I ride over to the docks and check out the action. There are about 5 commercial fishing boats at the dock. None are from Natashquan. I think they are crabbers (snow crab) from the look of the circular pots. There are also some longshoreman moving product around. I learn it’s in anticipation of the arrival of the Nordic Express, an all purpose ferry/freighter that services Natashquan and the villages to the east, none of which are accessible by highway to the rest of the world. Once a week this boat makes the rounds of these villages bringing everything and everyone (there are some seaplanes going there as well but the Nordic Express is the main show. It arrives in Natashquan at 4:00 AM tomorrow and leaves at 7:00 AM. I think I will go see it. After leaving the dock I putter around a bit (lube my chain, adjust mirrors, try to find a working cash machine, do laundry, etc. Eventually I take a nice walk on the local beach, which starts from behind the general store. Nice beach, but I am not a beach person. But I do find a nice looking bar/restaurant right on the beach and decide to come back for lunch. The food is very good and inexpensive. I go for the special beef bourgignon which is excellent. I decide to come back later with my book and read on the deck and enjoy the atmosphere and a beer. Very mellow and very friendly accomodating people. Rod Stewart is singing old standards on the sound system which reminds me of Nancy – nice thoughts.

I come back and read for a while, then take a nap and miss dinner, which is just as well, since I have already eaten enough.

I am a lot less motivated for the ride tomorrow. Maybe it’s because there may be rain, although the sky is still cloudless, or maybe it’s because the ride does not hold the excitement of experiencing new places – like the ride out to Natashquan. I decide I will focus on filling in the gaps that linger from the ride out. Looking in more depth at places I just glimpsed briefly in the dash to get here. That helps, but rain means a longer, sloppier ride.

Natashquan impressions: A nice little village, beautiful setting, all the houses are well kept, Local French and Indians seem to mix very freely and there is no evidence that one is an underclass. Modern conveniences abound – cable TV, ATMs, internet?? Strong sense of community and community pride, and of their history. Canadian bi-lingual policy doe not seem to extend to these French outposts (no English). It is far away, but not as isolated as the next villages to the east, which do not have highway access.

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